10.08.2009

THIS is How It's Done (Part Deux)

I wrote a post about shirt sleeve length back in January. Obviously, it still holds true (hell, it's a timeless style lesson), but here's a reinforcement of said point with 3 special notes:

  1. Same guy as before (Dario Spadea) nearly a year later still practicing high style. (See below for the original post.)
  2. The law applies the same to less formal appearances as it does more formal (compare his 2 pics below).
  3. Like I said previously, you see some wrist as his arm is bent which pretty much will tell you this shirt fits him perfectly when his arm is by his side (as does the peacoat over it).

(Photo: courtesy of the Sartorialist.blogspot.com)

---Original Post from January, 2009---
I was looking back through some pics of styles I like, trying to find a particular look I remembered seeing when I suddenly came across this picture.


courtesy: Scott Schulman

The point: This is absolutely, positively how a blazer or suit jacket arm length should be tailored. Period. (And how much cuff to show on a dress shirt under it.)

Here are the keys:
  • Your shirt cuff should meet the break of your wrist when your arm is straight by your side in a comfortable position (NOT to be confused with how to measure yourself for a shirt sleeve- i.e., crooked elbow, shoulder to wrist).
  • You should show 1/4 to 1/2 inch of cuff before your jacket begins (again, same position- arms by your sides).
  • Caveat: You will notice when you bend your arms (e.g., while driving) you may see your wrist and the jacket may seem higher up your forearm than you are used to. But this spec is still the difference from being well-dressed versus being stylish.
I have argued this point with a seamstress altering one of my jackets and several store clerks at various times trying on clothes and all were in the wrong (IMHO).

*Side note: I have a dress shirt on right now given to me as a gift and it is not my customary brand/sizing, but a close facsimile; It is driving me nuts because, despite the shirt stating the same measurements, the sleeves are juuuust a bit longer than my usual measurement and it is driving me crazy! (Yup, I have issues.)

10.06.2009

Proper Cloth Custom Dress Shirt Giveaway c/o StyleCrave

If you haven't checked out the folks' at StyleCrave (part of the uCrave network) then, well, you don't know who they are. But that obvious point aside, let me give you some insight- the guys know their shit when it comes to finding some good lookin' clothes. And occasionally, they throw in a contest to boot.

Take this hookup they are giving away in collaboration with ProperCloth.com. (Incidentally, the guys at Proper Cloth also know a thing or two about the business of clothing- the founder is an MIT Biz School grad who combines his mad tech and business skills with his love of fashion and takes pointers from a former 20-year custom clothing vet by way of Brooks Brothers and that "other little business school," Columbia University.) I digress, onto the contest!

The first step: visit ProperCloth.com and use the "create a shirt" tool to design your very own custom dress shirt.

Next, there are three ways to enter the Proper Cloth Custom Dress Shirt Giveaway: on Twitter, on your own blog or in the comments on StyleCrave's page. Here's how you can get involved:
  1. On Twitter: Tweet this to tell the world about your shirt design: I'm a mens fashion designer, thanks to @StyleCrave and @ProperLife http://bit.ly/jiobf
  2. On Your Blog: If you have a blog, mention this contest- you could even share a screenshot of your shirt with your readers. (See mine below.)
  3. In the Comments on StyleCrave's page.
The prizes:
  • First place: $200 gift certificate for ProperCloth.com
  • Second Place: $100 gift certificate for ProperCloth.com
  • Third Place: $50 gift certificate for ProperCloth.com
The boys at StyleCrave note that this giveaway is only open to US-based readers over the age of 18. Take a look at my design and why I picked my specs:

Navy and Red Pinpoint Dobby Check Shirt w/Blue Mini Bengal Dress Stripe Cuff and Collar
  • I like blue. It's "my color". But to just do another blue shirt would be boring. So I chose this slightly subtle blue and red check. You can pair with a number of suits (yes, you can mix checks with a striped suit- just leave the tie to a subtle pattern or solid), sport coat or leave it to its own devices and come away a winner.
  • Personally, I saw it under a V-neck cashmere sweater with a knit tie and blazer- perfect as we head to fall and very RL (not typically my thing, but I'd make the exception here).
  • I also chose French cuffs because I am really obsessing on these from the brothers at BillyKirk. And you can dress up French cuffs or dare to dress them down.
  • On that note, I threw in the Mini Bengal Dress Stripe in light blue for an accent on the cuffs and collar. Why? Because if you pull this shirt off in a suit and then, as is customary, you take off your jacket and roll your sleeves (whether getting down to some nitty gritty work or maxing and relaxing after with a Bombay & Tonic- my drink of choice), you need something to anchor the dress down look with your dressed up personality- and that's the business-like Bengal stripe accent. Which, by the way, scores against the I'm sure you know better than to match wider-stripe suit. (See? Told ya you can mix the check with the stripes!)
  • And the last detail is the semi-spread collar (the "English Spread" as Perfect Cloth so calls it). It can stand up on its own without a tie and not make you need the button-down All-American look, but with that rockin' red/blue check still look very American.
So there you go. Check out the contest and grab yourself some distinctively styled shirts in the process.




10.05.2009

Surely, THIS Must Be Heaven?

Like Pletty with his Monday Muses, I bestow upon thee- Ms. Beckinsale.