10.08.2009

THIS is How It's Done (Part Deux)

I wrote a post about shirt sleeve length back in January. Obviously, it still holds true (hell, it's a timeless style lesson), but here's a reinforcement of said point with 3 special notes:

  1. Same guy as before (Dario Spadea) nearly a year later still practicing high style. (See below for the original post.)
  2. The law applies the same to less formal appearances as it does more formal (compare his 2 pics below).
  3. Like I said previously, you see some wrist as his arm is bent which pretty much will tell you this shirt fits him perfectly when his arm is by his side (as does the peacoat over it).

(Photo: courtesy of the Sartorialist.blogspot.com)

---Original Post from January, 2009---
I was looking back through some pics of styles I like, trying to find a particular look I remembered seeing when I suddenly came across this picture.


courtesy: Scott Schulman

The point: This is absolutely, positively how a blazer or suit jacket arm length should be tailored. Period. (And how much cuff to show on a dress shirt under it.)

Here are the keys:
  • Your shirt cuff should meet the break of your wrist when your arm is straight by your side in a comfortable position (NOT to be confused with how to measure yourself for a shirt sleeve- i.e., crooked elbow, shoulder to wrist).
  • You should show 1/4 to 1/2 inch of cuff before your jacket begins (again, same position- arms by your sides).
  • Caveat: You will notice when you bend your arms (e.g., while driving) you may see your wrist and the jacket may seem higher up your forearm than you are used to. But this spec is still the difference from being well-dressed versus being stylish.
I have argued this point with a seamstress altering one of my jackets and several store clerks at various times trying on clothes and all were in the wrong (IMHO).

*Side note: I have a dress shirt on right now given to me as a gift and it is not my customary brand/sizing, but a close facsimile; It is driving me nuts because, despite the shirt stating the same measurements, the sleeves are juuuust a bit longer than my usual measurement and it is driving me crazy! (Yup, I have issues.)